Close to my Flagstaff home, beautiful Sedona spires are a little over an hour away to the south. David asks if the red rock in Sedona is a good place to climb for his dude climbing trip. I’m only to speak highly of the area because I love being FREAKED OUT on these climbs. Some of these routes have dried mud just clinging to the side of the cliff and these are called good holds. Some routes have sandy slabby grit to hold onto, got to love that.
I met David and his friends climbing out at a crag up the hill from Sedona called the Overlook. This is where I met Ed Ward. I can tell by the sparkle in his eye, we are going to be friends. At 67, Ed is a badass climber and always has been. We seem to climb at the same level and have a good connection. The next thing I know, we are climbing in the Gunks and just recently at Smith Rocks. The next time, who knows? But I can’t wait to go climbing again. The way he moves on the rock is astounding and inspiring but on the ground he can barely walk. I think it is from years of mountaineering that have put those knees to a bad state. David and Ed were elite mountaineers, along with some other buddies back east. I wish they would tell the tales of the old days. Next time I’ll have to drink more coffee and less scotch to stay up with them around the campfire.
On the last day, David is in awe of the climbing here. He looks at me honestly and says, “These FA’s were put up in the 50’s. I had no idea.” I look at him with a smirk. Because I know he has climbed EPIC mountains but these little spires, pack a punch.
Story : April 2010
Photos at Smith Rock: October 2010
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